Track Saw vs Table Saw 2026: 7 Picks That End the Debate

Every workshop eventually hits the same fork in the road. You’re standing over a stack of plywood, or maybe a pile of rough hardwood, and you have to decide: track saw vs table saw — which one actually solves the problem in front of you? It’s not a trivial question, and it’s definitely not one-size-fits-all. A track saw is a precision circular saw that rides along a guide rail, delivering table-saw-grade straight lines without the footprint of an actual table saw. A table saw, by contrast, is a stationary machine with a fixed blade poking up through a flat table, built for ripping, crosscutting, and joinery with a fence to keep everything square.

Here’s the honest version most buying guides skip: neither tool is “better” in a vacuum. The track saw vs table saw decision hinges entirely on your space, your material, and your workflow. Cabinet installers who break down full sheets of melamine solo lean hard toward track saws. Furniture builders doing repetitive rip cuts and joinery lean just as hard toward table saws. This guide walks through seven real, currently available saws — spanning both categories — with honest analysis grounded in actual specs and aggregated reviewer sentiment, so you land on the tool that matches how you actually work, not how a marketing page wants you to work.

Along the way, we’ll dig into related decisions you’re probably also weighing: table saw vs miter saw, whether a dado blade for table saw setups is worth the investment, which fence upgrades actually move the needle, and how track saw portability and cut accuracy stack up against a plain circular saw. Safety is worth front-loading into this decision too — federal safety regulators have documented tens of thousands of annual table saw injuries, which is part of why several picks below carry meaningful safety-feature differences worth weighing alongside price and capacity. By the end, the track saw vs table saw question won’t feel like guesswork anymore.

Quick Comparison Table: Track Saw vs Table Saw at a Glance

Reading the numbers, the pattern is pretty clear: a track saw wins the moment portability and solo sheet-goods work matter more than raw versatility, while a table saw wins the moment your projects demand repeatable joinery or high-volume ripping. Neither column tells the whole story on its own — you’ll almost certainly end up leaning on both categories at different points in a real project, which is exactly why the “vs” in this comparison is more about sequencing your purchases than picking a permanent winner.

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Top 7 Track Saws and Table Saws: Expert Analysis

Cabinet installers, furniture builders, and weekend renovators all ask some version of the same question, and the honest answer is that the “best” saw depends entirely on which side of the track saw vs table saw divide your next project falls on. Below are seven real, currently sold models — three track saws and four table saws — covering budget, mid-range, and premium tiers, each broken down with genuine spec interpretation and aggregated reviewer sentiment rather than invented anecdotes.

1. Makita SP6000J1 — best all-around track saw for the money

The Makita SP6000J1 opens this list because it’s the saw most woodworkers land on after comparing everything else. Its 12-amp motor and variable speed dial (2,000–5,200 RPM) mean you can dial the blade down for melamine and up for hardwood without swapping tools. What that spec sheet doesn’t tell you is that the anti-tip base plate locks the saw onto the rail during bevel cuts — a small detail that matters enormously the moment you’re cutting an expensive sheet of veneered ply at 45 degrees and can’t afford a wobble. Based on the spec comparison against premium European models, the SP6000J1 gives up only a little dust-collection refinement and a bit of rail rigidity in exchange for a meaningfully lower price. Reviewers consistently report that it delivers splinter-free plunge cuts and handles solid stock without bogging down, though a recurring complaint in user threads is that the base-plate rail adjusters can loosen over a hard day of use, requiring a periodic check. It comes bundled with a guide rail and hard case, which matters because buying rails separately for other saws adds real cost fast.

Pros:

• ✅ Strong 12-amp motor handles hardwood and sheet goods alike
• ✅ Anti-tip feature secures bevel cuts on the rail
• ✅ Compatible with Festool-style rails for cross-brand flexibility

Cons:

• ❌ Rail-adjuster bolts can loosen with heavy daily use
• ❌ Dust collection trails slightly behind premium European rivals

At around $550-$600, the Makita SP6000J1 delivers roughly 90% of premium-saw performance for meaningfully less money, making it the value verdict for anyone who isn’t married to a single-brand ecosystem.

2. Festool TS 55 FEQ-F Plus — the precision benchmark for cabinetmakers

The Festool TS 55 FEQ-F Plus earns its reputation the hard way: through decades of cabinetmakers and finish carpenters trusting it on work where a single splintered edge means redoing a $200 panel. Its scoring-capable design and refined splinter guard produce clean edges on both sides of a cut, which matters enormously on pre-finished materials where sanding isn’t an option. What most buyers overlook about this model is that the value isn’t really in the motor — it’s in the systemization. The rail-connector system, dust-extraction compatibility, and accessory ecosystem transform this from “a saw” into “a platform,” and that’s where the price premium actually gets justified. Reviewers consistently note the plunge action feels smoother than nearly every competitor, and the depth adjustment holds true to the millimeter across a full day of work. The recurring critique in aggregated review sentiment is that the corded FEQ-F, while capable, can feel a touch underpowered next to thicker hardwood stock compared to the cordless TSC variant, and the handle ergonomics trail slightly behind newer DeWalt designs.

Pros:

• ✅ Best-in-class dust collection for indoor and finish work
• ✅ Millimeter-precise depth and bevel adjustments
• ✅ Deep accessory ecosystem (rails, connectors, sanders)

Cons:

• ❌ Premium price relative to Makita and DeWalt alternatives
• ❌ Corded motor can feel light on thick hardwood stock

Expect to pay in the $650-$700 range for the Festool TS 55 FEQ-F Plus, and for professionals billing by the cut, that premium tends to pay for itself in reduced sanding and rework time.

3. WEN CT1065 — the real entry point into track-saw accuracy

Most “budget” track saws are really just circular saws with a rail bolted on as an afterthought, but the WEN CT1065 is a genuine plunge-cut design at a price that makes the whole category accessible. On paper this means a smaller motor and a shorter included rail than the premium options, and that’s a fair trade at this price point — this saw is not trying to be a Festool, and it doesn’t pretend to be. Here’s what to weigh: for occasional sheet-good breakdown, garage projects, or a first foray into track-saw cutting before committing to a pricier system, the fundamentals — a genuine plunge mechanism and a true zero-clearance rail cut — are all present. Reviewers consistently frame this as shockingly capable for the money, with common feedback praising straight, accurate cuts on plywood and MDF. The honest caveats found in aggregated feedback: the motor can labor on thick hardwood, and the shorter stock rail means you’ll want to budget for an extended rail if you’re breaking down full 8-foot sheets regularly.

Pros:

• ✅ Genuine plunge-cut mechanism at a rock-bottom price
• ✅ True zero-clearance rail delivers clean, accurate lines
• ✅ Low barrier to entry for first-time track-saw buyers

Cons:

• ❌ Motor labors on thick hardwood compared to pro models
• ❌ Stock rail is shorter than what full-sheet work requires

Priced around $100-$130, the WEN CT1065 is, sentence for sentence, the best value verdict on this entire list if your work leans toward occasional sheet-good cuts rather than daily professional use.

4. DEWALT DWE7491RS — the widest rip capacity in a jobsite table saw

The DEWALT DWE7491RS anchors the jobsite table-saw side of this comparison, and its 32.5-inch rip capacity is the single biggest reason why. That number matters in practice because it’s the difference between comfortably ripping a full sheet of plywood and constantly repositioning stock mid-cut. Paired with a rack-and-pinion telescoping fence, dialing in a rip width takes seconds rather than the fiddly back-and-forth of cheaper fence systems. Based on the spec comparison, its 4,800 RPM blade speed edges out most rivals in this price bracket, translating into cleaner exit cuts on hardwoods with noticeably less tear-out. Reviewers consistently praise the rolling stand and the one-step riving-knife removal, though a recurring theme in aggregated feedback is that the stock miter gauge is weak enough that most owners replace it almost immediately, and the saw runs notably loud compared to quieter rivals like the Bosch below.

Pros:

• ✅ Class-leading 32.5-inch rip capacity for full sheets
• ✅ Rack-and-pinion fence adjusts quickly and holds true
• ✅ Higher 4,800 RPM blade speed reduces hardwood tear-out

Cons:

• ❌ Stock miter gauge is widely considered nearly unusable
• ❌ Noticeably louder in operation than comparable rivals

In the $550-$650 range, the DEWALT DWE7491RS is the value verdict for anyone regularly ripping full sheet goods on a jobsite table saw, provided you budget an extra $80-$120 for a better miter gauge or crosscut sled.

5. Bosch 4100XC-10 — the fastest-deploying portable table saw

Where the DeWalt wins on capacity, the Bosch 4100XC-10 wins on getting out of the truck and into action. Its gravity-rise stand lets a single person go from folded to fully operational in seconds, and at 60 pounds with 8-inch pneumatic tires, it rolls across gravel and dirt without a fight. What the spec sheet won’t tell you, but reviewers note, is that the 4.0 HP motor rating means it shrugs off thick hardwood and pressure-treated lumber without bogging down, even though its 3,650 RPM blade speed trails the DeWalt’s on paper. The Smart Guard system’s independent side guards and onboard push-stick storage are the kind of small, thoughtful touches that add up over a long day. Aggregated reviewer sentiment consistently highlights the larger overall table surface as a genuine advantage for crosscutting, while the common critique is a slightly smaller 30-inch rip capacity compared to the DeWalt’s 32.5 inches.

Pros:

• ✅ Gravity-rise stand sets up single-handed in seconds
• ✅ 4.0 HP motor resists bogging down in dense hardwood
• ✅ Larger table surface aids crosscutting stability

Cons:

• ❌ Slightly smaller rip capacity than the DeWalt DWE7491RS
• ❌ Lower blade RPM means marginally more tear-out on hardwood

Expect a price range around $600-$700 for the Bosch 4100XC-10, which is money well spent for contractors who move between job sites weekly and value setup speed as much as raw capacity.

6. SawStop Contractor Table Saw (CTS-120A60) — the safety benchmark

No honest table saw comparison skips the SawStop Contractor Table Saw, because its flesh-detection technology genuinely changes the risk calculus of the tool. The system senses contact between skin and a spinning blade and drops the blade below the table in roughly 0.005 seconds — fast enough, according to independent testing referenced across woodworking publications, to turn what would be an amputation into a nick. Here’s what to weigh: this isn’t a gimmick tacked onto a mediocre saw. The underlying fence, motor, and table quality are genuinely competitive with premium contractor saws even before you factor in the safety system. Reviewers consistently describe the fence as smooth and accurate out of the box, and the brake-cartridge replacement process — while an added cost after an activation — as straightforward. The most common critique in aggregated feedback isn’t about performance; it’s about cost, since the safety technology adds a real premium over otherwise comparable saws, and accidental brake triggers from unexpected material contact (like a stray staple) mean replacement cartridges are a recurring, if infrequent, expense.

Pros:

• ✅ Flesh-detection blade brake stops in roughly 0.005 seconds
• ✅ Fence and table quality rival premium non-safety saws
• ✅ Widely regarded as the category’s safety gold standard

Cons:

• ❌ Meaningful price premium over comparable non-SawStop saws
• ❌ Brake-cartridge replacement adds cost after any activation

Pricing generally lands in the $900-$1,000 range for the SawStop Contractor Table Saw, and for shops with multiple users, students, or anyone prioritizing injury prevention above all else, that premium is the whole point rather than a drawback.

7. SKIL TS6307-00 — the true beginner’s table saw

Rounding out the list, the SKIL TS6307-00 exists for one purpose: getting a first-time buyer a genuinely functional table saw without a four-figure commitment. Its worm-drive motor design delivers more consistent torque at lower RPM than many direct-drive budget alternatives, which on paper means fewer stalls when starting a cut in thicker stock. The 30-inch rip capacity handles most beginner projects — cabinets, shelving, small furniture — without forcing awkward workarounds. Reviewers consistently describe it as “essential features without the fuss,” and aggregated feedback points to a fence that holds parallel well enough for hobby-level accuracy, though it lacks the micro-adjustment thumbwheels found on pricier fences. The honest downside surfacing across review threads is that the stock blade is mediocre and most owners upgrade it within the first few projects, and the safety features, while present, are more basic than what SawStop or even the DeWalt offer.

Pros:

• ✅ Worm-drive motor delivers steady torque at low cost
• ✅ 30-inch rip capacity covers most beginner projects
• ✅ Genuinely usable fence for hobby-level accuracy

Cons:

• ❌ Stock blade quality lags behind pricier competitors
• ❌ Safety features are more basic than premium alternatives

At roughly $400-$450, the SKIL TS6307-00 is the clear value verdict for anyone buying their very first table saw and wanting to learn fundamentals before investing in premium gear.

Setting Up and Maintaining Your Saw: A Practical Usage Guide

Whichever side of the track saw vs table saw debate you land on, the first 30 days of ownership shape how the tool performs for years afterward. For a track saw, the single most important habit is checking rail alignment before every session — a rail that’s shifted even a millimeter out of parallel with your intended cut line translates directly into a crooked edge on an expensive sheet. Clean the underside of the rail regularly; sawdust buildup there is a common, avoidable cause of drift. For blade maintenance, resist the urge to force a plunge cut through material the saw is laboring on — that’s the fastest way to prematurely dull carbide teeth on any of the models above.

Table saw setup is a bigger undertaking. Before the first cut, check that your blade is parallel to the miter slot (a simple test with a combination square catches most factory-alignment issues), and confirm your fence locks parallel to the blade at both the front and back. A fence that’s even slightly out of parallel is a leading cause of kickback, so this five-minute check is non-negotiable. Establish a maintenance rhythm: wipe down the table surface weekly to prevent rust and pitch buildup, wax the surface monthly for smoother feed, and inspect the riving knife alignment any time you swap blades. The most common first-month mistake among new owners of both tool types is skipping these baseline checks entirely and blaming “bad cuts” on the saw rather than the setup — a mistake that costs real money in wasted material.

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Real-World Scenarios: Matching the Saw to the Job

Picture three different buyers standing in the same tool aisle. First, a cabinet installer working solo, breaking down 4×8 sheets of pre-finished plywood in a client’s home where there’s no room for a table saw and no infeed/outfeed support available. For this buyer, the Makita SP6000J1 or WEN CT1065 — paired with a long rail — turns a two-person job into a one-person job, and track saw portability isn’t a nice-to-have, it’s the entire reason the tool exists.

Second, consider a furniture-building hobbyist working out of a two-car garage, building cabinets with dado joinery, tenons, and repeated identical rip cuts across dozens of board feet. For this buyer, a table saw is close to mandatory — the DEWALT DWE7491RS or SKIL TS6307-00, depending on budget, handles the repetitive, fence-guided work that a track saw simply isn’t built for.

Third, picture a parent teaching a teenager woodworking fundamentals in a home shop, where safety is the top-priority variable rather than raw capability. Here, the SawStop Contractor Table Saw justifies its premium entirely — the flesh-detection system removes a category of catastrophic risk that no amount of careful instruction can fully eliminate on its own. Matching the saw to the actual job, rather than to whichever tool feels more impressive in a showroom, is consistently the difference between a purchase that gets used constantly and one that gathers dust in a corner.

How to Choose Between a Track Saw and a Table Saw

1. Measure your available space first. If your shop can’t fit a table saw with adequate infeed and outfeed clearance, a track saw solves the space problem outright.
2. Count how often you break down full sheets solo. Frequent solo sheet-good work strongly favors a track saw’s portability and single-person operation.
3. Consider your joinery needs. Dadoes, rabbets, and tenons are table saw territory; a track saw simply can’t replicate that versatility.
4. Weigh your budget against your frequency of use. Occasional users get more value from a budget track saw; daily users justify a mid-range table saw faster.
5. Factor in safety priorities. If flesh-detection technology matters to your household or shop, that consideration alone can decide the table saw side of the equation.
6. Think about your finish requirements. Track saws generally produce cleaner edges on pre-finished panels straight off the cut, reducing sanding time.
7. Plan for both, eventually. Most serious woodworkers end up owning one of each — the real decision is simply which one to buy first.

Table Saw vs Miter Saw: Where Each One Wins

The table saw vs miter saw comparison gets asked almost as often as track saw vs table saw, and the honest answer is that they solve different problems entirely. A miter saw brings a spinning blade down onto stationary stock, making it the clear winner for fast, repeatable crosscuts and angles — trim, molding, framing, and picture-frame corners are miter-saw territory almost by default. A table saw, by contrast, pushes material through a stationary blade, which makes it the superior choice for ripping boards to width and breaking down sheet goods.

What most comparisons gloss over is that a table saw can approximate miter-saw functionality with a crosscut sled or miter gauge, but it takes longer to set up for each angle change than a miter saw’s built-in detents. Conversely, a miter saw cannot rip a board lengthwise at all — it’s simply not built for that motion. Beginners often ask which to buy first, and the honest analysis is that a miter saw carries a gentler learning curve and lower injury risk, making it the friendlier starting point for pure crosscut work, while a table saw remains the more versatile long-term investment once ripping and joinery enter the picture.

Looking at the table above, the practical takeaway is that these tools complement rather than compete — most well-equipped shops eventually own both, using the miter saw for finish carpentry and the table saw for ripping and joinery.

Ripping Large Panels: Track Saw Portability vs Table Saw Capacity

Table saw ripping large panels is a genuinely different physical challenge than ripping a narrow board, and this is where track saw portability earns its reputation. Feeding a full 4×8 sheet through a table saw solo requires solid infeed and outfeed support — without it, the panel sags, binds against the blade, and can kick back dangerously. Even the DEWALT DWE7491RS, with its class-leading 32.5-inch rip capacity, needs a support table or roller stands to safely process full sheets without a second set of hands.

A track saw sidesteps this problem entirely by bringing the tool to the material instead of the other way around. Lay the sheet flat on foam insulation board or sawhorses, clamp the rail, and cut — no infeed or outfeed support required, because the workpiece never moves. This is precisely why cabinet installers and one-person shops gravitate toward saws like the Makita SP6000J1 for breakdown work, reserving the table saw for the more precise secondary cuts afterward. The honest trade-off: a table saw still wins on repeatability and speed for narrow, repeated rips, while a track saw wins decisively on solo handling of oversized panels. Most professional shops use this exact division of labor — track saw for rough breakdown, table saw for final dimensioning — rather than treating it as an either/or decision.

Dado Blades and Joinery: What Only a Table Saw Can Do

A dado blade for table saw setups is one of the clearest reasons the category remains irreplaceable for furniture and cabinet work — there is no track saw equivalent. A stacked dado set, like the Freud SD508 Super Dado or similar 8-inch stacked configurations, combines two outer blades with adjustable chipper blades and shims to cut flat-bottomed grooves anywhere from 1/4-inch to 13/16-inch wide in a single pass. That range matters in practice because it covers the vast majority of standard plywood thicknesses used in shelving and cabinet carcasses.

Here’s what to weigh before buying one: not every table saw accepts a dado stack. Check your owner’s manual for arbor length and dado-compatibility ratings before purchasing, and note that SawStop specifically recommends against dado sets with anti-kickback shoulders, instead pointing owners toward purpose-built low-profile sets designed for flesh-detection saws. Reviewers consistently report that a quality stacked dado set produces cleaner, more accurate joinery than the “multiple pass with a single blade” method beginners often start with, cutting both setup time and sanding afterward. The common critique across aggregated feedback is that budget dado sets can leave a slight step between the outer blade and chipper cuts, so mid-range sets with proper shim kits tend to deliver noticeably better results than the cheapest options.

Best Table Saw Fence System: Why the Stock Fence Holds You Back

If there’s one upgrade that transforms a mediocre table saw into a genuinely precise one, it’s the fence. The best table saw fence system for most stock saws is an aftermarket T-square design, and the reasoning is straightforward: stock fences on budget and even mid-range saws frequently deflect or drift out of parallel under sideways pressure, which directly causes inaccurate rips and elevated kickback risk.

Aftermarket options like the Vega U26 and U50 systems use a three-point locking mechanism that stays parallel to the blade under load, plus a micro-adjustment thumbwheel for dialing in precise cut widths — a feature notably absent from many stock fences. On saws with more table depth to spare, systems from Woodpeckers or Incra push accuracy even further, with published tolerances around 0.002 inches per foot, though at a correspondingly higher price. Based on the spec comparison, the practical gain from stock to aftermarket generally runs from roughly 0.05-inch play down to something closer to 0.005-inch — a meaningful jump for anyone doing repeat, precision rip cuts. The honest caveat: installation on some saws requires drilling new mounting holes into cast iron, so always verify bolt-pattern compatibility before ordering, and budget an afternoon for a careful install and re-squaring rather than treating it as a five-minute swap.

The analysis here is simple: if your table saw work involves repeat rip cuts where a few thousandths of an inch actually matter — cabinet parts, drawer components, precise joinery — a fence upgrade pays for itself faster than almost any other accessory purchase.

Track Saw vs Circular Saw Accuracy: What Actually Changes

A common misconception is that a track saw is “just a circular saw with a fancy rail.” Track saw vs circular saw accuracy tells a more nuanced story. A standard circular saw, even guided carefully along a clamped straightedge, still has a baseplate with inherent play relative to the blade — small amounts of lateral wobble that show up as a slightly wavy edge, especially over longer cuts. A track saw’s baseplate, by contrast, is machined to interlock precisely with the rail’s anti-slip strip, essentially eliminating that lateral play by design.

The second, often-overlooked difference is the zero-clearance splinter guard integrated into the rail itself. On a circular saw and straightedge setup, the blade exits through open air on the offcut side, which is where most tear-out happens on delicate veneers and melamine. A track saw’s rail rubber strip is scored by the very first cut, creating a zero-clearance edge that supports the material fibers right up to the blade path. What most buyers overlook about this distinction is that it isn’t really about “raw precision” in the way a caliper measures it — a skilled operator can get a circular saw remarkably close on a single cut. The real gap shows up in repeatability and edge quality across dozens of cuts in a row, which is exactly the scenario cabinet installers and professional carpenters face daily, and exactly why the category commands a price premium over a comparable circular saw.

Common Mistakes When Buying Your First Saw

The single most common mistake, whether shopping track saw vs table saw, is buying based on motor specs alone while ignoring accessory costs. A track saw’s rail, connector kit, and dust-collection hose are often sold separately, and skipping them leaves buyers with a saw that can’t do the job the marketing photos implied. On the table saw side, a frequent misstep is underestimating outfeed and infeed support requirements — a saw with a generous rip capacity is only as useful as the space around it that actually supports the material being cut, and unsupported panels are a well-documented contributor to the kickback mechanism described in the technical history of riving knife safety devices.

A second recurring error is ignoring dust collection entirely until after purchase. Both categories generate significant airborne dust, and retrofitting extraction after the fact is more expensive and less effective than planning for it upfront. Third, many first-time buyers skip a test of blade-to-fence or blade-to-rail alignment straight out of the box, assuming factory calibration is perfect — it frequently isn’t, and a five-minute check prevents weeks of subtly inaccurate cuts. Finally, buyers regularly underestimate how much a quality blade upgrade changes performance; the stock blades bundled with budget saws in both categories are almost universally the weakest link in the entire system, and a $40-$60 upgrade often outperforms a $200 saw-body upgrade in terms of actual cut quality improvement.

Safety, Kickback, and Regulations Guide

Table saw safety isn’t optional, and it isn’t just a suggestion buried in an owner’s manual. Under federal workplace standards, OSHA’s woodworking machinery regulation requires that table saws used in commercial settings maintain a guard, riving knife, and anti-kickback device whenever the operation makes it feasible. That’s not bureaucratic box-checking — a riving knife specifically keeps the kerf open behind the blade so a partially cut board can’t pinch closed and violently kick back toward the operator, which remains one of the most common serious injury mechanisms tracked by federal safety data.

That standard is exactly why every table saw featured in this guide, from the budget SKIL TS6307-00 to the premium SawStop Contractor Table Saw, includes a riving knife as standard equipment. Beyond the riving knife itself, always keep the blade guard installed for through cuts, use push sticks for narrow stock, wear ANSI-rated eye protection, and never stand directly in line with the blade during a rip cut — kickback, when it happens, travels straight back along the cut line. Track saws carry meaningfully lower kickback risk by design, since the blade is enclosed within the rail’s cutting path, but they’re not risk-free either; always clamp the rail securely and keep hands well clear of the blade housing during plunge cuts.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

The track saw vs table saw decision ultimately comes down to matching the tool to your actual workflow rather than chasing the more “impressive” machine. If you’re breaking down sheet goods solo, working in tight spaces, or prioritizing portability, a track saw like the Makita SP6000J1 or budget-friendly WEN CT1065 earns its keep fast. If your projects demand repeated rip cuts, dado joinery, or a permanent shop centerpiece, a table saw — whether the capacity-focused DEWALT DWE7491RS, the quick-deploying Bosch 4100XC-10, the safety-first SawStop Contractor Table Saw, or the beginner-friendly SKIL TS6307-00 — remains the more versatile long-term investment.

Most serious woodworkers, given enough time, end up owning at least one of each. The honest advice: buy the one that solves your very next project, not the one you think you’ll eventually need, and let your actual work guide the second purchase when the time comes.

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